Miscellaneous

Bits and pieces...

Dry Sumps and Pumps

The dry sump oiling system, has the nasty habit of draining into the sump if the engine is left stationary for any length of time. Generally, if the engine hasn't been run within the last couple of days, it will need to be re-primed. Priming is the process of running the oil pumps independently of the engine with the purpose of returning oil to the dry sump tank, and thus making it available to the engine. If not done, there will be no oil delivered to the engine until the scavenging pumps in the sump have refilled the remote tank. Priming is generally done by removing the belt between the crank and oil-pump pulley, and running the oil pumps with a drill. It may also be necessary to pour some oil into the engine feed pump, as the thing may not self-prime (regardless of how long you run the pump).

Dzus Fasteners

Picture - Quarter-turn fastener (Milspec)

Are these the best things since sliced bread, or not? Dzus quarter-turn quick release fasteners (similar designs are now made by a multitude of companies; in fact the fastener pictured-left is made by Milspec) will either make your life really pleasant or annoy the heck out of you. The fasteners do provide a reasonable attachment, are stupidly quick to undo, and are almost completely unaffected by dirt. However they don't allow large amounts of misalignment (however significantly more than most other types of fasteners), the pin/spring depth is reasonably critical (and you'll probably end-up adjusting this) and they take a while to install (properly). Using them makes panel removal a breeze, however installation can take somewhat longer; especially if any fasteners need replacing.

Generally the tab is welded onto the frame and the spring attached via a couple of pop-rivets. A large hole is drilled through the associated panel and countersunk to accept the self-ejecting head assembly. This is also pop-riveted onto the panel. Note that all rivets should have have a very low-profile flat head or be flattened in-situ, otherwise the panel will sit slightly proud of the tab. This is particularly bad if the rivet heads are aligned between the tab and the self-ejecting head assembly.

Stainless Braided Hose

Braided hose has several advantages and disadvantages, and selecting whether to use it or not will probably depend on these:

Advantage - Looks good
Advantage - Reduces pressure-related size increases (particularly useful for retaining brake pedal feel)
Advantage - Reduces the possibility of kinking
Advantage - Is far less susceptible to being sliced/cut inadvertently
Disadvantage - Dirt can build up between the braid and rubber, increasing wear rates
Disadvantage - The rubber hose can fatigue with no change in the visible appearance of the hose
Disadvantage - Abrasive wear usually damages the braid, resulting in small sharp protrusions from the hose
Disadvantage - Heavier than un-braided hose
Disadvantage - Somewhat difficult to assemble

Don't ever run your hands down a braided hose, as you will invariably end up with a nasty long cut. Cutting can be performed with a set of cable shears or a cutting disc on a grinder (when used very slowly this is quite successful). To stop the braid springing apart, such that insertion into fittings is easy, you can either tape or cable tie the end and cut through them.

Quick-Release Steering Wheel

The lack of doors and space inside the truck make a removable steering wheel a handy fixture. The steering column ends in a spline similar to a normal column, with the steering wheel being held on with a pin rather than the normal central bolt. Pictured left is the rear of the steering wheel hub (with pin). Inset is the steering column spline.